It never ceases to amaze me how writing about Duke consistently leads me to discover something unique, rather than simply producing content that lacks appeal.
Recently, I listed a postcard from 1990, commemorating the erection of Duke’s statue in Hawaii, as I was reviewing my collection of his ephemera. Although I was uncertain about its marketability—given that it has remained unsold on eBay for several months—I felt comfortable parting with it.
During my browsing that time, I noticed two sellers listing a book titled “Australian Surfboard Riding.” Both editions are priced higher due to Duke’s signatures, with one dated 11/22/63 and the other 11/23/63. This would make a wonderful addition for any collector willing to invest significantly, though I do not fall into that category.
While I find the signatures quite appealing, what captivated me most was the foreword Duke penned for the book. I would like to share his words with you:
Aloha! I am flattered at being asked to write the Foreword to this book on Australian surfing riding. My memoreis of your beautiful country datee back to 1913 when I had the honor of making the first demonstration of surfboard riding in Australia. I am happy to have been a part of its growth.
It is particularly heartwarming to feel that my exhibition at Freshwater Beach on Sydney’s northside, 48 years ago, contributed in some small way to today’s love of surfing in Australia.
I have just celebrated my 73rd birthday by flying to California where I co-hosted the 1963 West Coast Surfing Championship with Johnny Weismuller at Hungtington Beach. I was astounded at the amount of interest there in surfing. As you know, surfing is a way of life in Hawaii, going back to the early days before the missionaries when it was known as the Sport of Kings, since they were the only ones permitted to surf. It looks like it’s rapidly becoming the King of Sports.
I do not surf any more, but swim every day at Wakiki Beach in front of the Outrigger Canoe Club and at least keep my finger in surfing. I recently retired as Sheriff of Honolulu after nine consecutive terms of office, and most of my time these days is taken up by being Hawaii’s Official Greeter and Ambassador at Large.
I look forward to meeting some of you Australian surfriders when you come to Hawaii and I hope you will drop in to see me.
Mahalo and good surfing to you.
— THE DUKE
Upon reading Duke’s foreword, I was filled with a warm sentiment, discovering that alongside his impressive swimming and surfing accomplishments, he had also penned a book foreword. His mention of no longer surfing evoked a sense of sadness, as it reflected a profound connection to an activity that had once been a cherished part of his youth. However, it is heartening to acknowledge that he enjoyed both surfing and swimming during his formative years.
Additionally, as I typed his foreword, I could almost hear his voice reciting the words, allowing me to transcribe them as if I had memorized his thoughts verbatim.
Encounters like this are uniquely enriching; few delve as deeply into Duke’s legacy as I do, unless others are similarly dedicated to documenting his life on a daily, weekly, monthly, or even yearly basis, which is how my journey began and continues to unfold.
Duke Kahanamoku lived a life brimming with adventure, even in his later years, which is truly impressive.
In my own foreword regarding the themes of my blog, I will conclude by expressing my gratitude: Mahalo, and until next time.